SIDEWINDER 3 SPORT WP 1:10 SCALE ESC

Accessories

 This FAQ Page is applicable to the following ESCs: Sidewinder 3 and Sidewinder SCT

1.   What is the difference between the Sidewinder 3 and the Sidewinder SCT?

The Sidewinder SCT comes with a fan pre-installed; it is an optional accessory for the Sidewinder 3. Both ESCs can be used interchangeably but the motors they are paired with in a combo determine appropriate usage. Please refer to our 1/10th Gearing Chart.

2.   Can I buy a replacement fan for my Sidewinder SCT or an optional fan for my Sidewinder 3?
Yes! We sell replacement fans for the Sidewinder SCT that will also work on newer versions of the Sidewinder 3 that have the fan clips. Click HERE for an example of the older Sidewinder 3 that cannot accept a fan and the newer Sidewinder 3 with clips that can accept a fan.
 

3.   What do the flashing LEDs mean?

The LEDs can have different meanings depending on what you are doing.
 

If you are not calibrating and have no throttle input then:

• Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
• Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off (battery)
• Flashing Green OR Red = Speed control has not been calibrated and is not armed; or throttle sub-trim is not at 0.
• Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse
• Yellow LED flashing - should not happen. May indicate problem with ESC or radio.
• Yellow LED is solid – ESC is armed and ready to drive.
• Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver

If you are applying throttle or reverse when NOT calibrating:

• Flashing Red and Yellow = over temperature
• Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off (battery)
• Flashing Green OR Red = indicates partial throttle (green) or reverse (red)
• Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red)
• Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver
• Solid Yellow - ESC is seeing a neutral signal .If it does not change then you are either plugged into the wrong channel on the receiver or there is a problem with your radio.

If you are applying throttle or reverse WHEN calibrating:

• Flashing Red and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
• Flashing Green and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating. Battery voltage mat be below cut-off voltage.
• Flashing Green OR Red while beeping = indicates speed control is looking for full throttle (green) or full reverse (red). If it continues for more than ~ 8 seconds, indicates speed control is seeing partial throttle (green) or reverse (red), increase endpoints on transmitter so speed control sees full throttle/reverse.
• Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read
• Flashing Yellow = speed control is not seeing a valid neutral signal, check your transmitters throttle sub-trim is at zero, exponential is set to 0 or linear, and mixing is disabled.
• Solid Yellow = indicates neutral has calibrated and is armed. While calibrating it means the ESC is seeing zero throttle and your radio is not sending out the proper signal.
• Flashing green, red and yellow while beeping = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver. Usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; also happens when speed control has accepted a calibration setting (throttle, reverse or neutral) and flashes/chimes 4 times before moving to next calibration point; or problem with throttle channel on receiver.

4.   I’d like to make sure I’m getting everything I can out of my Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT system. What are the best batteries to use?

The best LiPo packs on the market right now that we've tested thoroughly are the NeuEnergy 5000 30C, FlightPower Eon 5000 30C, Thunder Power 5000 40C, Thunder Power 5200 50C, Thunder Power 5300 65C, and MaxAmps 5250 and 6500 packs. This is not to say these are the only packs that will work, these are the only packs we've tested that we KNOW work. Feel free to give us a call if you'd like to know if your particular pack is going to handle the discharge currents these systems are capable of producing. Please keep in mind there are numerous brands on the market and we simply cannot know them all...our tech guys are good, but aren't that good.
 

5.   I’ve calibrated, but the car goes backwards with forward throttle.

Make sure the green LED is showing when you give forward throttle. If it is, then just swap any two of the ESC to motor wires to reverse the rotation direction of the motor.

If the ESC shows the red LED with forward throttle, you will need to reverse your throttle channel on your transmitter (via a micro switch, or within the programming of the radio) and recalibrate.
 

6.   My battery pack is plugged into the ESC, and nothing is working - no steering, and no throttle.

Make sure the ESC is plugged into channel 2/throttle on the receiver, and that it's plugged in with the correct orientation. Double check your solder connections on the battery plug. Generally if you have no steering with everything plugged in correctly, then your receiver is either not getting power or not getting a signal from your transmitter.
 

7.   My ESC calibrates for the full throttle and full brake positions, but won't calibrate to the neutral throttle position (yellow LED keeps flashing).

Try moving the throttle trim one way, then the other (usually towards the throttle side is best). If your transmitter has a 50/50 and 70/30 setting for the throttle, set it for 50/50 and retry calibration.
 

8.  My ESC may or may not arm, but it will not calibrate to my transmitter.

Most calibration issues can be solved by settings on the transmitter. Make sure you have both your throttle and brake endpoints (called EPA or ATV on your radio) on the throttle channel out to 100 to 120%. If you have a Spektrum transmitter and have an “A” and “B” slider switch near your thumb, adjust the throttle dual rate slider out to the maximum value as well. If you have a Futaba or Futaba made transmitter, set the throttle channel to the reversed position.
 

9.   I’m setting up a new car. How do I know which speed controller/motor to buy?

That’s what our expert technical support staff is for. Give them a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message. They’ll be more than happy to assist you in deciding on a product.
 

10. What is the motor turn count limit on my Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT ESC?

With brushed you can use 19T brushed with reverse, 12T with forward only, and with brushless the limit is the equivalent kv, motor size, and voltage as the Castle combos.
 

11. What brushless motors can I use my Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT with?

You can use the SV3/Sidewinder SCT ESC in a variety of situations and with a variety of motors. They will handle any of our CM36 2 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700, 9000), 1406 4 pole motors (4600, 5700, 6900, 7700), and our 1410-3800 short course. Our ESCs will also drive ANY manufacturer’s sensorless motor provided the kv, size of the motor can, and application are all at or below the recommendations for the equivalent Castle motor. If you have questions about using another manufacturer’s motor with your Castle ESC please give our technical support department a call at 913-390-6939 or send them a message. They’ll be more than happy to assist you.
 

12. I broke my Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT, and it was my fault. Am I stuck with a dead controller?

No, all Castle speed controllers have a core value. You can visit our Repair Center for details on how to send in your ESC for non-warranty replacement. Or you can contact our repair department regarding details. 913-390-6939, or send them a message.
 

13. When I turn my steering servo my receiver LED flashes, and the speed controller cuts out. Why?

The steering servo you are using is drawing more amperage than the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) on the speed controller is capable of handling. You can try using a capacitor in the receiver (Spektrum part SPM1600) in the battery slot of the receiver to prevent this drop out. The other option would be to disable the onboard BEC on the controller, and use a separate BEC like our CC BEC. To disable your onboard BEC carefully lift the tab on your receiver wire and pull the red wire out. Be sure to put heatshrink over the connector so it does not short out on anything. You may also put a short 3” servo extension between the ESC and receiver and remove the red wire from it rather than removing the wire from the ESC.
 

14. When I plug in my Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT into my Castle Link it doesn’t connect. What’s up?

First, make sure that on your Castle Link screen in the lower left hand corner you have a green USB connection status. If you do, the next step is to plug the ESC into the Castle Link. On the Castle Link circuit board just behind the three pins there are marks for positive (+), negative (-), and signal (?). The orange signal wire goes where the ? pin is, the red goes where the “+” is, and the brown wire goes where the “-“ is. If you have disabled the red (+) wire going to the receiver you will need to plug in a battery pack to power the ESC. Anything above 2s LiPo will do. Plug the ESC in first, then the battery pack. The ESC should then connect. It will not work in the other order (battery first, then ESC to computer) so be sure to connect in the proper order.
 

15. When I plug in my Castle Link I do not get a green USB connection status, thus making it impossible for me to connect my Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT to my computer. How do I fix this?

Please refer to the Castle Link FAQ section on loading the driver software onto your computer. This will solve your USB connection status issue, and get you connected to the computer.
 

16. I’m getting an error whenever I try to update settings or update the firmware on my speed controller. What is wrong?

There may be an issue with the processor on the speed controller. Try un-installing the Castle Link firmware on your computer or another computer, try downgrading to a different version of firmware, try unplugging the Castle Link chip from the end of the USB cable and plugging it back in, and see if any of these resolve the issue for you. If you are still having issues please contact Castle Creations tech support at 913-390-6939 ext. 1 or send them a message.
 

17. Is my Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT speed controller waterproof?

Yes! Although the Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT and Castle brushless motors are waterproof, they are not intended for operation while completely submerged in liquid. They are designed to handle normal wet conditions like driving through puddles, wet grass and snow; they are not designed to be submerged like a submarine. The ESC can corrode when exposed to corrosive materials, such as salt water. Always rinse the ESC and motor with clean water after exposure to corrosives or dirt. While the motor and controller may be waterproof, we suggest users confirm that the rest of their vehicle, including the batteries, servos, radio and chassis are also waterproof before exposing them to liquids of any kind.
 

18. What Auto-LiPo Volts/cell cutoff should I be using with my Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT?

You should use whatever your battery manufacturer’s recommendations are. Your speed controller came with a factory cutoff of 3.2v/cell. If you need to adjust this you can use a Castle Link or Field Link to program the speed controller for anything from 3.0v to 3.5v per cell.
 

19. Considering buying a system? Have one and are considering dropping it in a vehicle, but don’t know whether it will work with your vehicle?

Check out our gearing chart. Or if further assistance is needed please contact Castle Creations tech support at 913-390-6939 or send them a message.
 

20. Can I change the BEC output voltage on my Sidewinder 3/Sidewinder SCT?

No, it is fixed at 5 volts. If you require a higher or lower voltage you can use one of our CC BEC or CC BEC Pro's to raise or lower the voltage output to your servos and receiver. Remember to remove the red wire that plugs into the receiver or use a short 3" servo extension between the receiver and the ESC to disable the onboard BEC.

21. My speed controller beeps approximately every 15-20 seconds. What is that?

That is a feature we added called the “Power On Warning Beep”. It lets you know that your battery pack is still plugged in whenever the speed controller is seeing zero throttle or no throttle from the transmitter at all. This is a safety feature implemented due to the advent of LiPo technology. You can disable it if you would like using the Castle Link software, but it is recommended that it be kept enabled.

22. I plugged my motor into my ESC with the colors all matching (white to white, black to black, and red to red), I’m getting a green LED on the ESC when I pull the throttle, but my wheels go in reverse. What’s up?

There is no polarity with a sensorless brushless motor (all Castle motors). This means the color coding does not matter at all. To take care of the issue immediately you can simply swap two wires between the motor and ESC. If you would like to keep the color coordination you can plug the ESC into a Castle Link and reverse the motor direction.
 

23. What is the maximum input voltage the Sidewinder 3 and Sidewinder SCT ESCs will handle?

Both will handle a maximum input of 15 volts. 3s LiPo or 10 cell NiMH maximum.

24. Will cutting the switch off my Sidewinder 3/SCT ESC void my warranty?

No, it will not void the warranty as long as you only cut off the switch, solder the wires together, and cover them with shrink tubing on the outside the controller. Opening the controller and bridging the connection on the circuit board WILL void your warranty. ANY soldering on the speed controller will immediately void the warranty, no exceptions.

25. Why does my ESC not beep and show a solid red when trying to calibrate with a Spektrum SR6100AT receiver?

We have found that Spektrum has added a safety feature that interferes with our normal calibration and manual programming process. Our ESCs require you to power up the ESC at full throttle; the Spektrum SR6100AT receiver will not boot up properly until the throttle trigger is at neutral.
The solution we have found is to power up the ESC at neutral, wait for the receiver LED to turn solid amber, then apply full throttle; this allows the receiver to boot up properly.
WARNING: REMOVE Pinion gear or disengage motor from spur gear! You must apply full throttle BEFORE the ESC arms (double chime after LiPo cell count), but AFTER the receiver boots up and goes solid yellow. If the ESC arms and then you apply throttle the motor will run! We have found that waiting until the Auto LiPo feature counts the 3rd cell the receiver is operational and full throttle can be applied.