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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS: MAMBA MONSTER

Look here for answers to frequently asked questions about the Mamba Monster Power System. If you can't find an answer to your question here, please e-mail us at support@castlecreations.com or give us a call at (913) 390-6939.

Mamba Monster Extreme 1/8th Scale and Monster Truck Power System

1. I bought the Mamba Monster system and it's way too fast! How do I "tone it down"?

2. Since installing my Mamba Monster, I'm having range issues/glitching. What do I do?

3. My ESC may or may not arm, but it will not calibrate to my transmitter.

4. My ESC calibrates for the full throttle and full brake positions, but won't calibrate to the neutral throttle position (yellow LED keeps flashing).

5. My vehicle acts like it has "turbo lag" (poor acceleration/punch for the first few feet or yards, and then it "kicks in").

6. My battery pack is plugged into the ESC, and nothing is working - no steering, and no throttle.

7. Everything acts correctly when I plug in a battery and turn the switch on, but the motor won’t run.

8. I’ve calibrated, but the car goes backwards with forward throttle.

9. My monster truck/buggy/truggy is FLYING down the street, I’m replacing parts all the time, my neighbors think I must have made a contract with the devil, and all the nitro guys HATE ME!

10. I’d like to make sure I’m getting everything I can out of my Mamba Monster system. What are the best batteries to use?

11. Why does the fan on the Mamba Monster not run all the time or turns on for a split second when I power up the controller, then shuts off?

12. What do the flashing LEDs mean?

MAMBA Monster 1/8th SCALE and Monster Truck POWER PACKAGE INFORMATION
1. I bought the Mamba Monster system and it's way too fast! How do I "tone it down"?

Answer 1: Lowest timing advance, smallest pinion and largest spur gear, and experiment with punch control. Always do these three things FIRST. It's not a good thing to dial down the top throttle endpoint, especially when you can re-gear, or just go down in cell count. The batts, the ESC and the motor will all run hotter than normal in a system with turned down endpoints to slow it down. The ESC is thermally protected, but the batts and motor are NOT.

Answer 2: We're working on RPM limiting, and some other software to soften the extreme nature of the system until the users get used to controlling this much power.

Answer 3: If you owned a Ferrari, would you have to drive it full throttle through your neighborhood? The system is not uncontrollable; your finger just needs time to learn how to control the throttle trigger on a high power setup.

Answer 4: We also have more great tips for slowing the systems down, and generally tuning them to your preference in our Mamba Monster tuning guide.

Answer 5: Drop down to a lower voltage, or install a lower kv motor.

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2. Since installing my Mamba Monster, I'm having range issues/glitching. What do I do?

A high performance brushless system can feed more than twice the power into your car than you’ve ever had, and the more power the system wires carry, the more RF they can broadcast. A standard practice for high performance brushless systems is tightly twisting up or braiding all the power carrying wires (and especially the motor wires). Also make sure to keep the ESC and motor wires as far away from the Rx itself, and especially it's antenna as you can. Shortening the motor wires will not only help keep the car looking tidy, but clean up glitches as well.

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3. My ESC may or may not arm, but it will not calibrate to my transmitter.

Most calibration issues can be solved by settings on the transmitter. Make sure you have both your throttle and brake endpoints (called EPA or ATV on your radio) on the throttle channel out to 100 to 120%. If you have a Futaba or Futaba made transmitter, set the throttle channel to the reversed position. Also, if you have a quick brake adjust (usually labeled “A” or “B” near your thumb position on the transmitter, make sure it too is out to 120%.

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4. My ESC calibrates for the full throttle and full brake positions, but won't calibrate to the neutral throttle position (yellow LED keeps flashing).

Try moving the throttle trim one way, then the other (usually towards the throttle side is best). If your transmitter has a 50/50 and 70/30 setting for the throttle, set it for 50/50 and retry calibration.

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5. My vehicle acts like it has "turbo lag" (poor acceleration/punch for the first few feet or yards, and then it "kicks in").

Make sure you're using high quality batteries, and a battery connector capable of high amp flow (75A minimum!)…we recommend our 6.5mm CC Bullets, Deans Ultra connectors, or the Traxxas TRX connectors. This behavior is very typical of a battery pack that is having difficulty providing the power your vehicle/system requires for top performance. The faster the top speed of the system, and the more traction available, the harder the batteries have to work to accelerate the car.

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6. My battery pack is plugged into the ESC, and nothing is working - no steering, and no throttle.

Make sure the ESC's receiver plug is in channel 2 on the receiver, and that it's plugged in with the correct orientation. Double check your solder connections on the battery plug. Generally if you have no steering with everything plugged in correctly, then your receiver is either not getting power or not getting a signal from your transmitter.

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7. Everything acts correctly when I plug in a battery and turn the switch on, but the motor won’t run.

A battery may be plugged in with a lower voltage than the programmed cutoff voltage in the ESC. Check that the programmed cutoff voltage is correct for the battery you are using.

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8. I’ve calibrated, but the car goes backwards with forward throttle.

Make sure the green LED is showing when you give forward throttle. If it is, then just swap any two of the ESC to motor wires to reverse the rotation direction of the motor.

If the ESC shows the red LED with forward throttle, you will need to reverse your throttle channel on your transmitter (via a micro switch, or within the programming of the radio) and recalibrate.

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9. My monster truck/buggy/truggy is FLYING down the street, I’m replacing parts all the time, my neighbors think I must have made a contract with the devil, and all the nitro guys HATE ME!

So what’s the problem?

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10. I’d like to make sure I’m getting everything I can out of my Mamba Monster system. What are the best batteries to use?

We don't recommend using NiCad/NiMH batteries with the Mamba Monster, except with the batteries included with the Traxxas E-Maxx and E-Revo and using the gearing specified on Traxxas' website. The best LiPo packs on the market right now that we've tested thoroughly are the NeuEnergy 5000 30C, FlightPower Eon 5000 30C, Thunder Power 5000 40C, Thunder Power 5200 50C, Thunder Power 5300 65C, and MaxAmps 5250 and 6500 packs. This is not to say these are the only packs that will work, these are the only packs we've tested that we KNOW work. Feel free to give us a call if you'd like to know if your particular pack is going to handle the discharge currents these systems are capable of producing. Please keep in mind there are numerous brands on the market and we simply cannot know them all...our tech guys are good, but aren't that good.

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11. Why does the fan on the Mamba Monster not run all the time or turns on for a split second when I power up the controller, then shuts off?

The fan will run until the speed control is armed. After the speed control arms, it will shut down until speed controller reaches 150°; If your speed control is running under 150° F, the fan will never turn on.

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12. What do the flashing LEDs mean?

The LEDs can have different meanings depending on what you are doing.

If you are not calibrating and have no throttle input:
Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off(battery)
Flashing Green OR Red = Speed control has not been calibrated and is not armed; or throttle sub-trim is not at 0.
Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse
Flashing Yellow = possible problem with controller
Solid Yellow = indicates neutral and armed
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver.

If you are applying throttle or reverse when NOT calibrating:
Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off(battery)
Flashing Green OR Red = indicates partial throttle (green) or reverse (red)
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red)
Flashing Yellow = possible problem with control
Solid Yellow = should never happen
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver.

If you are applying throttle or reverse WHEN calibrating:
Flashing Red and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
Flashing Green and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
Flashing Green OR Red while beeping = indicates speed control is looking for full throttle (green) or full throttle (red). If it continues for more than ~ 8 seconds, indicates speed control is seeing partial throttle (green) or reverse (red), increase endpoints on transmitter so speed control sees full throttle/reverse.
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read
Flashing Yellow = speed control is not seeing a valid neutral signal, check your transmitters throttle sub-trim is at zero, exponential is set to 0 or linear, and mixing is disabled.
Solid Yellow = indicates neutral has calibrated and is armed
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver. Usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; also happens when speed control has accepted a calibration setting (throttle, reverse or neutral) and flashes/chimes 4 times before moving to next calibration point; or problem with throttle channel on receiver.