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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS: MAMBA MAX

Look here for answers to frequently asked questions about the Mamba Max Power System . If you can't find an answer to your question here, please e-mail us at support@castlecreations.com or give us a call at (913) 390-6939.

Mamba Max 1/10th Scale Power System

1. Which system do I need?

2. I bought the XXXX kv system and it's way too fast! How do I "tone it down"?

3. Since installing my Mamba Max, I'm having range issues/glitching. What do I do?

4. My ESC may or may not arm, but it will not calibrate to my transmitter.

5. My ESC calibrates for the full throttle and full brake positions, but won't calibrate to the neutral throttle position (yellow LED keeps flashing).

6. My vehicle acts like it has "turbo lag" (poor acceleration/punch for the first few feet or yards, and then it "kicks in").

7. My battery pack is plugged into the ESC, and nothing is working - no steering, and no throttle.

8. Everything acts correctly when I plug in a battery and turn the switch on, but the motor won’t run.

9. I’ve calibrated, but the car goes backwards with forward throttle.

10. All the Nitro guys hate me, my car has scratches on the top from doing wheelies at 45 mph, all my tires are bald and I keep blowing them off the rims. Plus all the neighbor kids come running out of the woodwork to watch every time they hear the Mamba tones, and I can’t stop grinning like a fool every time I squeeze the trigger. What’s wrong?

11. I’d like to make sure I’m getting everything I can out of my Mamba Max/Monster Max system. What are the best batteries to use?

12. I see on your website that you cannot use a 3s lipo pack with the Mamba Max 7700 kv motor? Why?

13. What do the flashing LEDs mean?

MAMBA MAX 10th SCALE POWER PACKAGE INFORMATION
1. Which system do I need?

That depends on how many cells, what vehicle, and what track/expectations?

For 6 cells NiMH:
Touring car (Associated TC4, Losi XXXS)
Short technical track - 4600 with good gearing range, or 5700 geared very small
Medium track - 5700 large gear range, 6700/6900 good gear range, 7700 geared small
Large track (nitros top out on the straight) 6700/6900 geared high, 7700 good gear range

2wd Buggy/Truck (Associated T4, B4, Losi XXXT, Duratrax Evader, Traxxas Stampede) and 4wd buggy (Kyosho Lazer, Losi XXX-4)
Short track - 5700, possibly 6900 geared small
Medium track - 6900, possibly 7700 geared small
Large track (nitro trucks topping out) big gear 6900, 7700

Measured speeds with 6 cell NiMH in a stock geared Associated B4 buggy:
4600: 30mph
5700: 35mph
7700: 45mph


On 2s Lipo:
Touring car (Associated TC4, Losi XXXS)
Short technical track - 4600
Medium track - 5700 large gear range, 6700/6900 geared small
Large track (nitros top out on the straight) 6700/6900 and 7700 should have good gear range

2wd Buggy/Truck (Associated T4, B4, Losi XXXT, Duratrax Evader, Traxxas Stampede) and 4wd buggy (Kyosho Lazer, Losi XXX-4)
Short track - 4600 or 5700
Medium track - 5700 or 6900 geared small
Large track (nitro trucks topping out) big gear 6900, small gear 7700

Measured speeds with 2 cell LiPo in a stock geared Associated B4 buggy:
4600: 30mph
5700: 40mph
7700: 50mph


3s Lipo
NOT FOR USE WITH THE 7700 MOTOR
Touring car (Associated TC4, Losi XXXS)
Short technical track - NA
Medium track - 4600 large gear range, maybe 5700 geared small
LARGE track (nitros top out on the straight) 5700 geared up

2wd Buggy/Truck (Associated T4, B4, Losi XXXT, Duratrax Evader, Traxxas Stampede) and 4wd buggy (Kyosho Lazer, Losi XXX-4)
Short track - 4600
Medium track - 5700 small gear
Large track (nitro trucks topping out) big gear 5700

Measured speeds with 3 cell LiPo pack in a stock geared Associated B4 buggy:
4600: 45mph
5700: 60mph

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2. I bought the XXXX kv system and it's way too fast! How do I "tone it down"?

Answer 1: Lowest timing advance, smallest pinion and largest spur gear, and experiment with punch control. Always do these three things FIRST. It's not a good thing to dial down the top throttle endpoint, especially when you can re-gear, or just go down in cell count. The batts, the ESC and the motor will all run hotter than normal in a system with turned down endpoints to slow it down. The ESC is thermally protected, but the batts and motor are NOT.

Answer 2: We're working on RPM limiting, and some other software to soften the extreme nature of the higher Kv systems until the users get used to controlling this much power.

Answer 3: If you owned a Ferrari, would you have to drive it full throttle through your neighborhood? The system is not uncontrollable; your finger just needs time to learn how to control the throttle trigger on a high power setup.

Answer 4: We also have more great tips for slowing the systems down, and generally tuning them to your preference in our Mamba Max Tuning guide.

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3. Since installing my Mamba Max, I'm having range issues/glitching. What do I do?

A high performance brushless system can feed more than twice the power into your car than you’ve ever had, and the more power the system wires carry, the more RF they can broadcast. A standard practice for high performance brushless systems is tightly twisting up or braiding all the power carrying wires (and especially the motor wires). Also make sure to keep the ESC and motor wires as far away from the Rx itself, and especially it's antenna as you can. Shortening the motor wires will not only help keep the car looking tidy, but clean up glitches as well.

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4. My ESC may or may not arm, but it will not calibrate to my transmitter.

Most calibration issues can be solved by settings on the transmitter. Make sure you have both your throttle and brake endpoints (called EPA or ATV on your radio) on the throttle channel out to 100 to 120%. If you have a Futaba or Futaba made transmitter, set the throttle channel to the reversed position.

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5. My ESC calibrates for the full throttle and full brake positions, but won't calibrate to the neutral throttle position (yellow LED keeps flashing).

Try moving the throttle trim one way, then the other (usually towards the throttle side is best). If your transmitter has a 50/50 and 70/30 setting for the throttle, set it for 50/50 and retry calibration.

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6. My vehicle acts like it has "turbo lag" (poor acceleration/punch for the first few feet or yards, and then it "kicks in").

Make sure you're using high quality batteries, and a battery connector capable of high amp flow (40-100Amps). This behavior is very typical of a battery pack that is having difficulty providing the power your vehicle/system requires for top performance. The faster the top speed of the system, and the more traction available, the harder the batteries have to work to accelerate the car.

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7. My battery pack is plugged into the ESC, and nothing is working - no steering, and no throttle.

Make sure the ESC's receiver plug is in channel 2 on the receiver, and that it's plugged in with the correct orientation. Double check your solder connections on the battery plug. Generally if you have no steering with everything plugged in correctly, then your receiver is either not getting power or not getting a signal from your transmitter.

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8. Everything acts correctly when I plug in a battery and turn the switch on, but the motor won’t run.

A battery may be plugged in with a lower voltage than the programmed cutoff voltage in the ESC. Check that the programmed cutoff voltage is correct for the battery you are using.

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9. I’ve calibrated, but the car goes backwards with forward throttle.

Make sure the green LED is showing when you give forward throttle. If it is, then just swap any two of the ESC to motor wires to reverse the rotation direction of the motor.

If the ESC shows the red LED with forward throttle, you will need to reverse your throttle channel on your transmitter (via a micro switch, or within the programming of the radio) and recalibrate.

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10. All the Nitro guys hate me, my car has scratches on the top from doing wheelies at 45 mph, all my tires are bald and I keep blowing them off the rims. Plus all the neighbor kids come running out of the woodwork to watch every time they hear the Mamba tones, and I can’t stop grinning like a fool every time I squeeze the trigger. What’s wrong?

So what is the problem here exactly . . . ?

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11. I’d like to make sure I’m getting everything I can out of my Mamba Max/Monster Max system. What are the best batteries to use?

The best NiMH cells on the market for 1/10th scale vehicles are currently IB3800s, IB4200s, GP3300s, GP3700s, and GP4300s. There are other cells on the market with the same capacity, but not all cells are created equal. These are the best in their class…period. The best lipo packs on the market right now that we’ve tested thoroughly are the Tanic 3250’s, Tanic 3650’s, Tanic 5000’s, and Apogee 3800s. This is not to say these are the only packs that will work, these are the only packs we’ve tested that we KNOW work. Feel free to give us a call if you’d like to know if your particular pack is going to handle the discharge currents these systems are capable of.

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12. I see on your website that you cannot use a 3s lipo pack with the Mamba Max 7700 kv motor? Why?

Here’s where physics comes into play. Centrifugal forces increase by the square of the diameter. In laymen terms, the larger the diameter of the motor the more centrifugal force will be generated for a certain rpm. As such, the larger the motor diameter the lower the rpm the motor can handle. 3s lipos put the 7700kv motor out of its maximum rpm range, and the magnet inside generally shatters.

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13. What do the flashing LEDs mean?

The LEDs can have different meanings depending on what you are doing.

If you are not calibrating and have no throttle input:
Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off(battery)
Flashing Green OR Red = Speed control has not been calibrated and is not armed; or throttle sub-trim is not at 0.
Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse
Flashing Yellow = possible problem with controller (Mamba Max Pro indicates neutral and armed with C.H.E.A.T. turn off)
Solid Yellow = indicates neutral and armed (Mamba Max Pro indicates neutral and armed with C.H.E.A.T. turn on)
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver.

If you are applying throttle or reverse when NOT calibrating:
Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off(battery)
Flashing Green OR Red = indicates partial throttle (green) or reverse (red)
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red)
Flashing Yellow = possible problem with control
Solid Yellow = should never happen
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver.

If you are applying throttle or reverse WHEN calibrating:
Flashing Red and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
Flashing Green and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
Flashing Green OR Red while beeping = indicates speed control is looking for full throttle (green) or full throttle (red). If it continues for more than ~ 8 seconds, indicates speed control is seeing partial throttle (green) or reverse (red), increase endpoints on transmitter so speed control sees full throttle/reverse.
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read
Flashing Yellow = speed control is not seeing a valid neutral signal, check your transmitters throttle sub-trim is at zero, exponential is set to 0 or linear, and mixing is disabled.
Solid Yellow = indicates neutral has calibrated and is armed
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver. Usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; also happens when speed control has accepted a calibration setting (throttle, reverse or neutral) and flashes/chimes 4 times before moving to next calibration point; or problem with throttle channel on receiver.


GENERAL ESC INFORMATION
1. I’m setting up a new airplane/helicopter/boat/car. How do I know which speed controller/motor to buy?

That’s what our expert technical support staff is for. Give them a call at 913-390-6939 or send an email to support@castlecreations.com. They’ll be more than happy to assist you in deciding on a product.

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2. Can I control how much current passes through my speed controller by limiting full throttle travel on my transmitter with endpoint adjustments/trim? In other words can I use a 25 amp speed controller with a motor that will pull 45 amps but lower my top throttle endpoint on my transmitter so my watt meter only shows 25 amps at full throttle? Will this be OK?

NO!!! A speed controller controls power to the motor by turning full throttle current on and off really fast, 11 to 13 thousand times per second (Pulse Width Modulation or PWM). The percentage of each on/off pulse that is off compared to the part that is on determines how much power the motor sees. I.E. With a pulse that is 50% off and 50% on the motor will see 50% power*. Because each on pulse is 100% of full throttle current, a system set to pull 20 amps at full throttle through a Phoenix 10 will not last if you are throttled back to the point where you only see 10 amps on a wattmeter. The ESC in this case is still switching 20 amps, which it can’t do for long. Actually it is worse than the simple example above. Because an electric motor will always to try to pull as much power as is available to get to its rpm (volts times Kv), when you are running the motor below its Kv speed by switching power on an off, each on pulse will actually be way over the full throttle amp draw. That is why ESCs work harder at partial throttle than full throttle and why we underrate our ESCs. We underrate not so they can handle more current than their rating at full throttle, but so they can handle extended partial throttle operation with no problems.

* Actually, electric power is not linear as in this example, but you get the idea.

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