Refunds will only be issued for products purchased directly from Castle Creations. If you did not purchase your product from Castle Creations, please contact the retailer or dealer that you purchased your product from for information on their return policy.

For products purchased directly from Castle Creations, a request should be submitted via e-mail or phone prior to the return of any product for credit. Return of defective products that are under warranty will be credited in full. Returns for other reasons may be subject to a 10% restocking fee.

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Castle Creations offers a factory repair service to its customers. Don't throw away your old speed control - all Castle Creations products have a core value!

Repairs due to component or workmanship failure and purchased within the one-year warranty period are provided at no charge. Repairs outside the warranty period or repairs that are necessary due to misuse, abuse, neglect, or incorrect wiring will be repaired at the current flat rate repair fee (see schedule below).

Castle Creations reserves the right to repair or replace defective products at it's discretion. Repair and exchange replacements will be for the same or current production model products only. Repair turn-times vary depending on parts availability and technician workload, however, most repairs take only a few days in our repair shop.

To return a product for repair send to:
Castle Creations
540 North Rogers Road
Olathe, KS 66062

Include your original purchase receipt or provide the following:

• Product(s) being returned
• Date of purchase
• Nature of failure and details of your model (prop, cells, motor, etc.)
• Contact information including name, phone number, and/or e-mail address, and return address
• Make certain to package your product for safe transport! (We hate to get a little plastic bag from the Post Office with a standard envelope that's been shredded in the mail sorting machinery and an apology from the USPS.)

NOTE: Please do not send anything in for repair other than your controller (such as NiMH/NiCad packs, any Lithium Polymer batteries, servos, gyros, and etc.) unless specifically instructed to do so by our technical support staff.

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Refunds will only be issued for products purchased directly from Castle Creations. If you did not purchase your product from Castle Creations, please contact the retailer or dealer that you purchased your product from for information on their return policy.

For products purchased directly from Castle Creations, a request should be submitted via e-mail or phone prior to the return of any product for credit. Return of defective products that are under warranty will be credited in full. Returns for other reasons may be subject to a 10% restocking fee.

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The most likely cause of this problem is a lithium polymer battery pack that is not capable of providing the current the motor, gear ratio, and propeller are asking for. Normally the voltage curve for lipo batteries is almost flat, but when overdrawn their voltage will fall below the cut off point before the battery is discharged completely. The solution for this situation is either a higher gear ratio or a smaller prop, which lowers the current draw of the system. Or, if the performance is not wished to be lost, a higher Mah, or more capable brand of lipo pack can be used.

Another less likely cause for premature LVCO is too small or too high a resistance plug between the battery and the ESC. Also make sure the wires on the battery pack are at least the same size as on the ESC.

If the battery pack is up to the task, and the wires and plugs are sized correctly, it is possible that a sudden motor cut off, with the ability to restart by going to the off throttle position, could be caused by the over current protection on that particular controller being too sensitive.

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NOTE: To set up governor mode, you must first make sure your motor/gear/battery setup is optimized. Set your transmitter for a linear throttle and the ESC on the airplane fixed throttle setting. Set your transmitter for zero blade pitch across the throttle channel, and secure the machine. Spin up the machine and tach the head at 25%, 50%, and 75% throttle. Ideally, you want to see your desired (and safe for the machine) headspeed at around 70% throttle. If the headspeed is much faster or slower than your target headspeed when you are at 70% throttle, you will need to gear differently, use a different Kv motor, or a different cell count. When set up in an optimized state as above, you are virtually guaranteed a good performing power system (within the limits of reason of course) and that the governor mode will work it’s best (within the capabilities of the motor) to hold a stable headspeed through all collective inputs and maneuvers.

Once optimized, find the transmitter throttle % that gives you your desired headspeed and use a “straight across” throttle curve with that %. Governor mode is not intended to be used with variable throttle inputs - only use a straight curve. If you find the headspeed is varying slightly in a hover (slight tail wag) try changing the throttle % by one or two %. If the helicopter “bogs” or slows down with heavy collective inputs, you are exceeding the torque capabilities of your motor. Try going down in pinion size, and then up in throttle % to regain the previous headspeed. The higher the headspeed you run, the more power and torque is required from the system to maintain it. You will increase runtime and decrease power system temperature by simply decreasing your headspeed. The tradeoff is with decreased headspeed, the overall sensitivity and responsiveness of the helicopter decreases.

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NO!!! A speed controller controls power to the motor by turning full throttle current on and off really fast, 11 to 13 thousand times per second (Pulse Width Modulation or PWM). The percentage of each on/off pulse that is off compared to the part that is on determines how much power the motor sees. I.E. With a pulse that is 50% off and 50% on the motor will see 50% power*. Because each on pulse is 100% of full throttle current, a system set to pull 20 amps at full throttle through a Phoenix 10 will not last if you are throttled back to the point where you only see 10 amps on a wattmeter. The ESC in this case is still switching 20 amps, which it can’t do for long. Actually it is worse than the simple example above. Because an electric motor will always to try to pull as much power as is available to get to its rpm (volts times Kv), when you are running the motor below its Kv speed by switching power on an off, each on pulse will actually be way over the full throttle amp draw. That is why ESCs work harder at partial throttle than full throttle and why we underrate our ESCs. We underrate not so they can handle more current than their rating at full throttle, but so they can handle extended partial throttle operation with no problems.

* Actually, electric power is not linear as in this example, but you get the idea.

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