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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS: 1/18th SCALE PRODUCTS

Look here for answers to frequently asked questions about 1/18th Scale Products. If you can't find an answer to your question here, please e-mail us at support@castlecreations.com or give us a call at (913) 390-6939.

Note: The Mamba-25 has been replaced by the Sidewinder Micro. All FAQ items below are applicable to both products.

1. My Mamba-25 18th scale system seems like it has turbo lag where it takes awhile to get going, then takes off. Why is that?

2. My Competition X Mamba system in my Mini-T keeps flipping the truck over if I give it too much throttle. When I can keep it rubber side down, it's so fast that I keep hitting things.

3. I’ve heard you released new software for the Mamba-25 1/18th scale systems that helps with cogging issues. Is this true, and if so, which version do I download to my Mamba-25 controller?

4. Should I grind a flat spot on my Mamba motor shaft to help hold the pinion on?

5. The shaft on my Mamba motor snapped while driving. What should I do?

6. What do the flashing LEDs mean?

1/18th SCALE PRODUCT INFORMATION
1. My Mamba-25 18th scale system seems like it has turbo lag where it takes awhile to get going, then takes off. Why is that?

The most common cause of lag, or lack of initial torque, with a Mamba-25 is inadequate batteries and/or inadequate connectors or too small a wire on the battery pack. For a brief period when starting up, the Mamba motor will want to draw almost 100 amps! Resistance from the original connectors, or low discharge performance battery packs will not be able to supply the current for “better than stock” performance. We recommend Deans Ultra plugs between the battery and the ESC, and 16 gauge wire from the battery packs (same size as on the controller). The best NiMH cells on the market are IB1200s, IB1400s, and GP1100s, regardless of pack manufacturer. There are a lot of 1100-1400mah cells out there that vary widely in capability, but the IB (Intellect Battery) and GP (Gold Peak) cells are by far the best. Right now, Lipo packs also vary widely in discharge ability. Give us a call if you'd like specific lipo pack recommendations for your system and vehicle.

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2. My Competition X Mamba system in my Mini-T keeps flipping the truck over if I give it too much throttle. When I can keep it rubber side down, it's so fast that I keep hitting things. What's going on?

Congratulations! Perfectly working system!

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3. I’ve heard you released new software for the Mamba-25 1/18th scale systems that helps with cogging issues. Is this true, and if so, which version do I download to my Mamba-25 controller?

You heard correctly. Our new version 1.05 Mamba software is smoother than ever and eliminates virtually all cogging issues. You will need a Castle Link in order to load the software to the controller (or you can send it in to us to have it upgraded). If you’re still experiencing cogging after loading this software, chances are the problem lies elsewhere in the system.

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4. Should I grind a flat spot on my Mamba motor shaft to help hold the pinion on?

No!!! Grinding a flat spot on the shaft weakens it and makes it prone to snapping. Most importantly it VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY!!! A better method for attaching your pinion is to use green loctite (RC™ 609 formula). This formula is made specifically for attaching pinions to motor shafts, and works so well you don’t even have to use a set screw. To remove the pinion simply heat it up with a small torch or lighter (preferably torch), and it will pop right off.

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5. The shaft on my Mamba motor snapped while driving. What should I do?

If you’re within the warranty period (1 year from date of purchase), send the motor in with a copy of your receipt and we’ll replace it free of charge. If you’re out of warranty, please see the flat rate repair fee chart located on the General FAQ page.

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6. What do the flashing LEDs mean?

The LEDs can have different meanings depending on what you are doing.

If you are not calibrating and have no throttle input:
Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off(battery)
Flashing Green OR Red = Speed control has not been calibrated and is not armed; or throttle sub-trim is not at 0.
Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse
Flashing Yellow = possible problem with controller
Solid Yellow = indicates neutral and armed
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver.

If you are applying throttle or reverse when NOT calibrating:
Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off(battery)
Flashing Green OR Red = indicates partial throttle (green) or reverse (red)
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red)
Flashing Yellow = possible problem with control
Solid Yellow = should never happen
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver.

If you are applying throttle or reverse WHEN calibrating:
Flashing Red and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
Flashing Green and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
Flashing Green OR Red while beeping = indicates speed control is looking for full throttle (green) or full throttle (red). If it continues for more than ~ 8 seconds, indicates speed control is seeing partial throttle (green) or reverse (red), increase endpoints on transmitter so speed control sees full throttle/reverse.
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read
Flashing Yellow = speed control is not seeing a valid neutral signal, check your transmitters throttle sub-trim is at zero, exponential is set to 0 or linear, and mixing is disabled.
Solid Yellow = indicates neutral has calibrated and is armed
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver. Usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; also happens when speed control has accepted a calibration setting (throttle, reverse or neutral) and flashes/chimes 4 times before moving to next calibration point; or problem with throttle channel on receiver.