Refunds will only be issued for products purchased directly from Castle Creations. If you did not purchase your product from Castle Creations, please contact the retailer or dealer that you purchased your product from for information on their return policy.

For products purchased directly from Castle Creations, a request should be submitted via e-mail or phone prior to the return of any product for credit. Return of defective products that are under warranty will be credited in full. Returns for other reasons may be subject to a 10% restocking fee.

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Castle Creations offers a factory repair service to its customers. Don't throw away your old speed control - all Castle Creations products have a core value!

Repairs due to component or workmanship failure and purchased within the one-year warranty period are provided at no charge. Repairs outside the warranty period or repairs that are necessary due to misuse, abuse, neglect, or incorrect wiring will be repaired at the current flat rate repair fee (see schedule below).

Castle Creations reserves the right to repair or replace defective products at it's discretion. Repair and exchange replacements will be for the same or current production model products only. Repair turn-times vary depending on parts availability and technician workload, however, most repairs take only a few days in our repair shop.

To return a product for repair send to:
Castle Creations
235 S. Kansas Avenue
Olathe, KS 66061

Include your original purchase receipt or provide the following:

• Product(s) being returned
• Date of purchase
• Nature of failure and details of your model (prop, cells, motor, etc.)
• Contact information including name, phone number, and/or e-mail address, and return address
• Make certain to package your product for safe transport! (We hate to get a little plastic bag from the Post Office with a standard envelope that's been shredded in the mail sorting machinery and an apology from the USPS.)

NOTE: Please do not send anything in for repair other than your controller (such as NiMH/NiCad packs, any Lithium Polymer batteries, servos, gyros, and etc.) unless specifically instructed to do so by our technical support staff.

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Refunds will only be issued for products purchased directly from Castle Creations. If you did not purchase your product from Castle Creations, please contact the retailer or dealer that you purchased your product from for information on their return policy.

For products purchased directly from Castle Creations, a request should be submitted via e-mail or phone prior to the return of any product for credit. Return of defective products that are under warranty will be credited in full. Returns for other reasons may be subject to a 10% restocking fee.

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The most likely cause of this problem is a lithium polymer battery pack that is not capable of providing the current the motor, gear ratio, and propeller are asking for. Normally the voltage curve for lipo batteries is almost flat, but when overdrawn their voltage will fall below the cut off point before the battery is discharged completely. The solution for this situation is either a higher gear ratio or a smaller prop, which lowers the current draw of the system. Or, if the performance is not wished to be lost, a higher Mah, or more capable brand of lipo pack can be used.

Another less likely cause for premature LVCO is too small or too high a resistance plug between the battery and the ESC. Also make sure the wires on the battery pack are at least the same size as on the ESC.

If the battery pack is up to the task, and the wires and plugs are sized correctly, it is possible that a sudden motor cut off, with the ability to restart by going to the off throttle position, could be caused by the over current protection on that particular controller being too sensitive.

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No, the microprocessor currently used on the Castle Creations' brushed controllers is not capable of connecting to the Castle Link at this time.

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The Castle Link will work on almost any PC running Windows 98 SE or later. It will not run on Windows 95 or earlier.

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With software updates you can apply new features to your Phoenix ESC without having to buy a new controller or sending it in. We don't believe in planned obsolescence. We are one of the few hi-tech companies that will admit there is no such thing as perfect software. While our code is not perfect, it is better than most and we keep improving it. Also, the motor landscape (brands and types) changes radically every six months or so with new designs, sizes, and requirements for each. We can react quickly to those trends (usually before they come out to the public) and keep every Phoenix controller in up-to-date shape for any motor – regardless of when the controller was made.

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See the Castle Link Software Troubleshooting Guide.

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Congratulations! Perfectly working system!

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Answer 1: Lowest timing advance, smallest pinion and largest spur gear, and experiment with punch control. Always do these three things FIRST. It's not a good thing to dial down the top throttle endpoint, especially when you can re-gear, or just go down in cell count. The batts, the ESC and the motor will all run hotter than normal in a system with turned down endpoints to slow it down. The ESC is thermally protected, but the batts and motor are NOT.

Answer 2: We're working on RPM limiting, and some other software to soften the extreme nature of the higher Kv systems until the users get used to controlling this much power.

Answer 3: If you owned a Ferrari, would you have to drive it full throttle through your neighborhood? The system is not uncontrollable; your finger just needs time to learn how to control the throttle trigger on a high power setup.

Answer 4: We also have more great tips for slowing the systems down, and generally tuning them to your preference in our Mamba Max Tuning guide.

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Most calibration issues can be solved by settings on the transmitter. Make sure you have both your throttle and brake endpoints (called EPA or ATV on your radio) on the throttle channel out to 100 to 120%. If you have a Futaba or Futaba made transmitter, set the throttle channel to the reversed position.

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Make sure you're using high quality batteries, and a battery connector capable of high amp flow (40-100Amps). This behavior is very typical of a battery pack that is having difficulty providing the power your vehicle/system requires for top performance. The faster the top speed of the system, and the more traction available, the harder the batteries have to work to accelerate the car.

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A battery may be plugged in with a lower voltage than the programmed cutoff voltage in the ESC. Check that the programmed cutoff voltage is correct for the battery you are using.

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So what is the problem here exactly . . . ?

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The LED is a simple signal indicator. When it’s powered up but receiving no signal (Tx not on, or on a different channel) the LED will shine. When it’s getting a good locked-on signal from your Tx the LED is off. During invalid signal events in the course of otherwise normal operation it may blink on momentarily as well.

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We recommend you set up your plane’s control inputs to throttle “off”, and then set up the control surfaces for either a gentle turn (neutral elevator and slight rudder for 3 channel models), a spin (partial or full up elevator and partial or full rudder), or a flat spin ( full up elevator, full rudder, and partial opposite aileron) depending on the model and the flying environment.

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No. In order to maximize the light weight and small size of the 4L, the crystal only has the pin sockets themselves to stabilize it. When inserted to it's stops, it is very securely held within the spring-loaded pin contacts inside the socket.

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Absolutely yes. We designed all our Berg receivers to be full range and fully capable of flying any size plane that you’d like to with them. Being bigger and heavier does not automatically mean better for receivers! Our surface mount construction combined with ultra-tight parts tolerances make for the same solid reliability in any size or style aircraft. Don’t let the size fool you, and let the performance speak for itself!

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Shortening the antenna reduces both sensitivity (range) and selectivity (ability to sort good signals from bad).

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Use a “Y” harness on any channel and plug the Rx battery into to the extra plug.

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Yes, any Berg may be repaired or replaced at no charge within one year of purchase, or repaired or replaced at a flat fee after one year.

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Once optimized, find the transmitter throttle % that gives you your desired headspeed and use a “straight across” throttle curve with that %. Governor mode is not intended to be used with variable throttle inputs - only use a straight curve. If you find the headspeed is varying slightly in a hover (slight tail wag) try changing the throttle % by one or two %. If the helicopter “bogs” or slows down with heavy collective inputs, you are exceeding the torque capabilities of your motor. Try going down in pinion size, and then up in throttle % to regain the previous headspeed. The higher the headspeed you run, the more power and torque is required from the system to maintain it. You will increase runtime and decrease power system temperature by simply decreasing your headspeed. The tradeoff is with decreased headspeed, the overall sensitivity and responsiveness of the helicopter decreases.

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